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Monthly Archives: February 2013

Domestic foodscapes – a reflection

25 Monday Feb 2013

Posted by julia chews the fat in The Basics

≈ 3 Comments

My relationship with my kitchen has been a complicated one. It’s a space I love to hate. True, there are certain moments when it feels really good being in it – like trolling around in wool socks and silk karate pants on weekends with an espresso and the newspaper, or on a mid-week night when I decide to make brownies or cookies or granola at 10pm so the apartment can smell of hot sugar by bedtime. And on certain levels, I feel that we understand eachother. It’s gotten used to my klutzy moves and my swearing and my need to have something blabbing away loudly while I cook – This American Life, Twin Peaks and…sweet mercy save me…Coronation Street. And I’ve gotten used to its puny cupboards and schizophrenic oven and its little surprises – like the time I came back from the cottage to find a brood of pantry moths and carpenter ants hosting a food party in my cupboard, forcing me to chuck nearly everything, scrub every nook and cranny with a vinegar-soaked toothbrush and seal all cracks with caulking. It wasn’t a very romantic moment for my kitchen and I. 

My kitchenette is not what you might call a cook’s dream – it’s the kind real-estate agents have been trained to describe as “quaint” or “cozy”, the space they show you quickly before whisking you away to a larger, more impressive room, in the hopes of whitewashing your memory of it. But something happened this weekend to give me a new-found appreciation for my kitchen space. I spent the better part of Saturday at a workshop organized by the Canadian Centre for Architecture, a sort of conversation/presentation/tasting event that addressed the theme of food in the built environment. Led by one of the founding members of Concordia University’s Food Studies Research Group, the workshop de-constructed the idea of “domestic foodscapes”, encouraging us to consider the relationship between how we feed ourselves and the space(s) in which we choose to do it.

Now, the notion of choice in our domestic environment can sometimes be a tricky one – many of us feel bound by limitations when it comes to spatial arrangements at home. I think that this even more palpable for those of us who are renters, as we generally can’t make substantial changes to our environment (I even signed a contract separate to the lease requiring me, amongst other things, to have my paint colors approved by my landlord). In arrangements like these, choices feel stifled, limited, controlled. But as leasers, we also understand that there’s not a whole lot we can do about it. Some of us accept it; some of us rail against it. When it comes to my kitchen – the place I spend most of my non-work waking hours – I fall into the railing-against-my-reality category. I bitch about its knob-less cupboards, its minuscule prep space, its tiny eating area, its bizarre placement right off the bathroom. But then I realise that I’m doing the thing we all do – complaining about what we don’t have by falling into the “if only” trap. I would make better _____ if only my kitchen had ____. The workshop at the CCA resonated with me; it helped shine a light on the things I do like about my domestic foodscape – my army of mason jars, my vintage scales and colanders, my Bialetti stovetop espresso maker, my teak table and mid-century lamp…

Kitchen – north view (p.s the thing that the wooden cutting board is sitting on was not part of the counter top. It’s a free-standing kitchen cart from Ikea. The only original counter space is what you see to the left of the sink…)
Kitchen – south view
Eating nook

Hardcore Mason-love
Cast irons & Bialetti

I’ve come to realize that if I really hated this space so much, I wouldn’t store and exhibit such precious items in it.

I’m learning to focus on the things I love about my crazy-ass kitchen. Because, despite its imperfections and idiosyncrasies, it still enables me to do what I need to…

…like, making pretty sexy boxed lunches…

duck box lunch

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Her Italian Clark Gable

14 Thursday Feb 2013

Posted by julia chews the fat in Cooking with Nonna, Lunch & Dinner, Vegetarian

≈ 11 Comments

A few days ago I spent an evening with my Nonna. It’s rare that we find ourselves sharing some time and space together without any other family members in the mix, but on this particular night, circumstances lined up in such a way that it was just her and I. Nonna and nipote.

We put together a simple dinner – pasta with Swiss chard and ricotta – teasing each other about the “right” way to make it, a sort of a ping-ponging of questions and answers wherein I attempt (quite unsuccessfully) to enforce my points in broken dialect. We discuss the merits of handmade ricotta versus store-bought; she chops some chard and I watch over the garlic frying on the stove. Side-by-side in her kitchen, we reminisce about little details, many about my grandfather – how he liked his pasta cooked into oblivion; how he used to always help himself to seconds; how much he loved having people over for dinner, with a carafe of his homemade wine stationed on the table. His wine was practically undrinkable and we always complained that the pasta was overcooked – but we were happy.

Nonno didn’t talk much during meals, often telling us we talked too much, but he still found moments to inject a zinger or two into the conversation – usually something he knew would get a rise out of my grandmother, who would respond with a small, but swift whack to the back of his head. Without fail, he would peel into laughter and Nonna would shake her head, playfully lamenting: “Oh Lord, give me patience.”

gnocchislowres

The way they interacted was, to me, completely unique. It was integral to who they were as a couple and as partners, and inseparable from my memory of them as grandma and grandpa. We often think that romance is the first thing to disappear in a marriage, especially one that is decades old. But even in their late age, I would sometimes find him bringing her coffee in bed or holding her hand. They were simple gestures, but ones that were nonetheless tangible reminders of their love for one another; small expressions that slipped inconspicuously into their day-to-day, even in their last ones together.

Nonna&NonnoThe soul of that relationship lives on every time I talk to my grandmother about Nonno. She speaks about him with such tenderness. My mom once joked that he was her Italian Clark Gable. He no doubt drove her crazy in moments too – but when you strip it all down, what remains is the affirmation of a true partnership, one rooted in whole-hearted devotion and capable of withstanding the worst of life’s adversities.

As I sit with Nonna at the dinner table, I recognize the love she had for him. I also recognize the love I have for her and how spending this time by her side fills my heart with a warmth that is pure and unspoken and unparalleled.

Happy Valentine’s, Nonna. Ti amo. x

—–

Pasta with Swiss Chard and Ricotta – serves 2

  • 1/2 bunch Swiss chard
  • 1 small onion, sliced
  • 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
  • about 1/4 tsp dried pepperoncini flakes
  • olive oil
  • 1/3 lb dry fettucine (or linguini)
  • about 1 cup fresh ricotta

Put a large pot of water on to boil.

Wash chard and dry well (a salad-spinner works best). Remove large ribs (the white part at the base of each leaf) and chop the leaves. Set aside.

Once the pot of water has reached the boil, add a handful of sea salt. When the water has reached a rolling boil, add the pasta. Cook uncovered until al dente, being careful to stir every so often.

Put about about 2 Tbsp of olive oil in a large pan set on the stove on medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot (but not smoking), add the onion and fry until transluscent. Add the garlic and pepperoncini flakes and fry for about 1 minute, until the garlic is fragrant and lightly golden (but not browned). Then add the chopped chard and sauté for 3-4 minutes*.

(*you can add a bit of the pasta water to help steam the chard.)

Drain the pasta and add to the pan with the chard. Move the pasta around the pan (tongs work best) to coat with the chard mixture.

Serve in pasta bowls with a generous dollop of fresh ricotta and a drizzle of your best olive oil (and a few flecks of Maldon salt – but don’t tell Nonna).

Note: a nice alternative is to lightly broil the ricotta on the pasta before serving (see image below). Set the oven on broil at 500°F. Once you’ve mixed the pasta and chard, spoon it into a baking dish and add a layer of ricotta on top. Broil on center rack for about 2-3 minutes or until cheese is golden.

0311

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Sick-day omelette

10 Sunday Feb 2013

Posted by julia chews the fat in Breakfast & Brunch, Cooking Solo, The Basics, Vegetarian

≈ 4 Comments

Hi there.

I’m three days into a head cold, so this one’s going to be quickie. If there are spelling mistakes, or incoherencies, I apologize in advance. Trying to write with NeoCitran coursing through your veins feels like being at the steering wheel with one arm.

So I will be economical with my words, and just say this: MAKE THIS OMELETTE. It might just be the best one you’ve ever had. It’s filled with clusters of air bubbles that crackle and melt in your mouth – the kind of food that makes you involuntarily close your eyes between bites. Like women do in yogurt commercials.

Oh and the figs? They will sucker punch you into a euphoric haze. So, yeah, make those too.

Well. It was nice checking in with you – but if you don’t mind, I’m going to go back to drinking lemon tea and watching Timothy Olyphant in a cowboy hat.

Souffléed Omelette with Honeyed Figs (serves 1) – inspired by Luisa Weiss’ My Berlin Kitchen

omelette with honeyed figs

  • 3 eggs divided
  • 1 tbsp. cold butter 
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper

1) Divide eggs, putting whites into a medium bowl and yolks into a small bowl. Season egg yolks to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper, mix together with a fork, and set aside.

fig omelette 001

2) Beat egg whites with a whisk until soft peaks form. Fold egg whites gently into egg-yolk mixture until combined and set aside.

whipped egg whites

3) Melt butter in a cast-iron pan on medium heat. When the butter starts to bubble, pour egg mixture into skillet and spread evenly in pan. Cook omelette, gently shaking skillet over heat occasionally, until bottom is golden, 2-3 minutes. Loosen omelette and flip it onto the other side. Cook covered for an additional 2 minutes or until center in just set. Serve straight away.

(Note: another option is to fold the omelette into a half-moon after the first 2 minutes of cooking, then pop it into a 350°F oven to finish. You can also add grated cheese, chives, etc to the beaten egg yolks if you wish.)

For the Honeyed Figs:

  • 2- 3 fresh figs
  • 1 Tbsp honey
  • about 2 Tsbp goat’s cheese

Set the oven to 400°F. Wash and halve the figs. Lay in a roasting pan, cut-side up and drizzle with the honey. Add a dollop of goat’s cheese onto each fig. Place into preheated oven and bake for 6-8 minutes. Set the oven to broil and bake the figs for an additional 30 seconds or until the cheese is bubbling and golden.

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