• Home
  • About

julia chews the fat

julia chews the fat

Monthly Archives: August 2012

Blueberries – a proper farewell

25 Saturday Aug 2012

Posted by julia chews the fat in Sweet Tooth, Vegetarian

≈ 2 Comments

That nip in the air, the earlier sunsets, the back-to-school gear that’s begun to monopolize the store shelves…there’s no point in sugar-coating it, kiddos: summer is almost finito.

The end of August marks a transition; it’s a seasonal no-man’s land that makes us feel a little uneasy about letting go of summer. You know the feeling: when you’re in a store at this time of year and see a crestfallen kid whose mother is stocking the cart with quad notebooks and pencils, both of them still wearing flip flops. You have that moment of empathy – that moment of wanting to say, “I know, buddy. It feels too early.”

Times like these require us to seize what we have, while we have it. This may translate into a final few evenings at the beer garden; or a couple more weekends out at the lake. In the realm of summer foodstuffs still available in northern latitudes, it means one last fling with blueberries.

—–

I secured a hefty batch of some of the last Quebec blueberries two weekends ago, the same weekend that I was invited to a friend’s for a last-minute dinner. The recipe below is the result of those lovely circumstances coming together. This cobbler was put together in about the same time it took me to shower, put on some clothes and dash out the door. It arrived at the dinner table still warm from the oven with a deep perfume of summer – one that will hopefully linger on just a little while longer.

Bueberry Cobbler (adapted from Bon Appetit) – serves 6

  • 1 cup flour
  • ½ cup rolled oats
  • ¼ cup walnuts
  • 1/3 cup plus 2 Tbsp natural cane sugar (or brown sugar)
  • 1 ½  tsp baking powder
  • ½  tsp salt
  • 6 Tbsp. chilled, unsalted butter, cut into 1/2” pieces
  • ½ plain Greek yogurt (full-fat)
  • 6 cups blueberries
  • 2 Tbsp. lemon juice
  • 1 Tbsp. lemon zest

Directions

Preheat oven to 375 F. In a large bowl, whisk flour, oats, walnuts, baking powder, salt and 2 Tbsp sugar. Add butter, using your fingers and combine with flour mixture to make pea-size clumps. Gently mix in yogurt. Knead until biscuit-like dough forms, being careful not to over-mix (which will toughen the dough).

In a separate bowl, combine remaining 1/3 cup sugar, berries, juice and zest. Toss to coat. Pour into a baking dish. Tear biscuit topping into rough pieces and scatter over berries.

*Note: Technically, a cobbler has spaces between the topping pieces, but somehow mine just sort of melded together while it baked – it doesn’t effect the taste, but aesthetically, it ended up looking more like a crisp and less like a cobbler. For a more “authentic” look, just use less bits of topping and make sure there are spaces so that that the berries can pop through.

Bake until juices and thick and bubbling and topping is cooked through and golden brown (35-45 minutes).

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Share on Tumblr
Like Loading...

Poach this egg

16 Thursday Aug 2012

Posted by julia chews the fat in Breakfast & Brunch, Vegetarian

≈ 9 Comments

Up until a few short years ago, my interest in poached eggs hovered between mild to non-existant. Growing up, there were two variations of eggs on rotation in our household – scrambled and omelette – and the idea of a jiggly or, lord forbid, runny yolk was something my kid sensitivities couldn’t quite handle. I expected my egg yolks to be cooked practically into oblivion, always mixed with the whites (no hard-boiled here) and doused with a generous squeeze of Heinz ketchup.

Things are very different now. If I were able to hop into a time machine, I would tell my kid-self that a) runny yolks are great; b) ketchup should be reserved for hot-dogs; and c) The Barenaked Ladies are not the coolest band on Earth (except, maybe, when they did that cover of Bruce Cockburn’s “Lovers in a Dangerous Time“. For that one my adult-self will make a valid exception).

With eggs, the game-changing moment happened shortly after the end of a five-year relationship, when I started to dine on my own again. The specifics are a bit fuzzy, but I remember it being brunch, on a weekend, at this place. I don’t think there was anything particularly special about these eggs – they were served on English muffin, with Mornay sauce (maybe some spinach, à la Florentine?) – but for some reason that was the moment I understood why people were into poached eggs. It was the first time I was able to appreciate their rich and oozy centres, that splash of bright yellow that flows in unruly swirls all over the plate, before being mopped up with a wedge of bread.

It’s strange how that happens – when something that used to send shivers down your spine suddenly becomes good. I hesitate to admit it, but I suspect that part of this shift in taste was a happy by-product of a larger effort to etch out out a new side of myself post-split. It goes without saying that eating a poached egg is not an earth-shattering, epic, Gloria Steinem-esque affirmation of independence. But at the time, it felt like a small gesture, a nudge towards new things. He hated poached eggs, so we never ate them at home, and I had pretty much given up on them at some point between the time my musical preferences gravitated from Paula Abdul to Steven Page.

Post-split felt like the perfect time to give poached eggs another go.

Since that pivotal moment, I’ve eaten my way through many plates of Benedict and Florentine – out at brunch, or over at friends’ houses. But until this past weekend, I’d never been able to make a decent one myself. The water wouldn’t be hot enough. Or it would be too hot. Or I would attempt the vortex method, watching passively, with mouth agape, as each egg got sucked into the water tornado, only to swiftly fall apart into a holy mess of stringy egg whites.

That is, until I listened to the Spilled Milk podcast on poached eggs last week.

The hosts of Spilled Milk – Molly Wizenberg and Matthew Amster-Burton – have easily become the Paula Abdul and Steven Page of my adult life. I look forward to listening to their podcasts the same way I used to look forward to slipping “Forever Your Girl” or “Gordon” into my Walkman. Spilled Milk makes me giggle in public, by myself, in the company of strangers. Once I tried so hard to told back laughter I snorted latte out my nose on a metro car full of people. I am willing to put my dignity on the line to listen to them discuss the merits of sour candy and the perils of eating rhubarb.

This nerd crush runs deep, people.

The episode on poached eggs addressed their apprehensions of the poaching process. Hearing them confess their struggles not only made me feel less ashamed of my ineptitude, but also assuaged my fears of making another batch of egg-streaked vinegar-water. Emboldened, I went digging for a recipe on Molly’s site Orangette and came across one for “Turkish Poached Eggs with Yogurt and Spicy Sage Butter”.

What you get is a couple of pillowy poached eggs on a layer of garlicky yogurt, drizzled with a toasty sage-paprika butter. Everything about this was right. Everything.

Please poach this egg.

Turkish Poached Eggs with Yogurt and Spicy Sage Butter (serves 2) – from Orangette

½ cup plain Greek yogurt (full-fat)
½ garlic clove, crushed in a mortar and pestle (or with a garlic press)
⅛ cup (¼ stick) butter
6 fresh sage leaves
¼ tsp sweet paprika
¼ tsp dried crushed red pepper
Salt
1 tbsp white vinegar
4 eggs*
Bread for serving

*The fresher the egg, the better. If in doubt, try the sink/float test: if an egg submerged in water sinks, it is very fresh; if it floats, it’s generally not. I award you double-extra nerd points if you were just about to get up and test all the eggs in your fridge.

Directions

Blend the yogurt and crushed garlic in a small bowl; season with salt. Divide the mixture between four plates, dropping a dollop in the centre of the plate and spreading it out with the back of a spoon to form a large, thin circle.

Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the sage, paprika, and red pepper, and stir just until the butter sizzles. Be careful not to let the butter burn or get too coloured. Remove it from the heat, and season to taste with salt.

Fill a large skillet about two-thirds full with water, to a depth of about 2 inches. Add about a tablespoon of white vinegar, and bring it to a slow simmer over medium-high heat. Once you see several little bubbles along the bottom of the pan and the surface of the water is gently bubbling (not a rolling boil), your water is ready. While you wait for the water to heat up, prepare a medium bowl with warm water and set it aside.

Crack an egg into a heatproof cup or ramekin. Holding the cup upright, lower the base into the water, and then, slowly and gently, twist your wrist to turn the egg out into the water. Allow the first egg to settle a bit before adding a second one. Depending on the size of your skillet, you can poach 2-3 eggs at a time. Given that this recipe includes 4 eggs, I did it in 2 batches.

Cook each egg for 2-3 minutes total, until the white is opaque. Lift each egg out with a slotted spoon. Slide the egg into the bowl of warm water that you have set aside to keep them warm while you finish up the other eggs, make toast, etc.

When you are ready to serve, remove the eggs from the water with the slotted spoon, gently shake off any water, and place two eggs atop the yogurt on each of the four plates. Spoon the paprika-butter over the eggs and yogurt. Serve with bread, toasted or plain.

Share this:

  • Tweet
  • Share on Tumblr
Like Loading...

Facebook

Facebook

Instagram

No Instagram images were found.

Recent Posts

  • Layers and Rows
  • Finding Buoyancy
  • February
  • Wednesday
  • Cross My Heart, Miso

Archives

  • May 2017
  • April 2017
  • February 2017
  • December 2016
  • November 2016
  • September 2016
  • August 2016
  • July 2016
  • June 2016
  • May 2016
  • April 2016
  • March 2016
  • February 2016
  • January 2016
  • December 2015
  • November 2015
  • October 2015
  • September 2015
  • August 2015
  • July 2015
  • June 2015
  • May 2015
  • April 2015
  • March 2015
  • February 2015
  • January 2015
  • December 2014
  • November 2014
  • October 2014
  • September 2014
  • August 2014
  • July 2014
  • June 2014
  • May 2014
  • April 2014
  • March 2014
  • February 2014
  • January 2014
  • December 2013
  • October 2013
  • September 2013
  • August 2013
  • July 2013
  • June 2013
  • May 2013
  • April 2013
  • March 2013
  • February 2013
  • January 2013
  • December 2012
  • November 2012
  • October 2012
  • September 2012
  • August 2012
  • July 2012
  • June 2012
  • May 2012
  • April 2012
  • March 2012
  • February 2012

Categories

  • Beverage
  • Breakfast & Brunch
  • Condiments
  • Cooking For Your Peeps
  • Cooking Solo
  • Cooking with Nonna
  • Food Away From Home
  • Food Writing
  • Holidays
  • Intro
  • Lunch & Dinner
  • Snacking
  • Soups
  • Sweet Tooth
  • The Basics
  • Vegetarian

Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 82 other subscribers

Blog at WordPress.com.

  • Subscribe Subscribed
    • julia chews the fat
    • Join 82 other subscribers
    • Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
    • julia chews the fat
    • Subscribe Subscribed
    • Sign up
    • Log in
    • Report this content
    • View site in Reader
    • Manage subscriptions
    • Collapse this bar
 

Loading Comments...
 

    %d